it’s been almost A YEAR since my last fashion trend study (*gasp*)!! i have a whole stack of old magazines pages, waiting to be collaged and studied! today, is about 2009 spring/summer.
[ S/S 2009 ]
– what happened in 2009 ／ ２００9年のファッション出来事 –
michelle obama and the one-shoulder dress ／ ミシェル・オバマとワンショルダー・ドレス
yellows & golds ／ 黄色とゴールド
exotic bohemian cont’d ／ 前シーズンから引き続きエキゾチックボヘミアン
dresses ／ ワンピース
color blocking ／ カラーブロック
shoulder accents ／ アクセントショルダー
pops of color ／ カラー・ポップ
big accessories ／ デカめアクセサリー
geometric folds & pleats ／ 幾何学プリーツ
harem & skinny ankle pants ／ ハーレムパンツ & 足首細めパンツ
old school denim (dyed & damaged) ／ レトロなデニムディテール (クラッシュや染めなど)
watercolor florals ／ 水彩画フローラル
bows ／ リボン
one of the biggest trends of 2009 spring/summer, was the one-shoulder dress. a major highlight would be then first lady, michelle obama’s inauguration ball dress, designed by jason wu. also, dresses became a staple in the wardrobe, layering them over leggings, pants, or on their own–in a sense, an expression of the continued bohemian trend from the winter. i have a lasting impression of origami folded details in skirts and dresses. and my number one favorite, that i still consider a staple of my own, is the harem/carrot top pant with skinny ankles.
i’ve been spending the past couple of months going through my stock of fabrics and materials, and boy do i have lots of them that have accumulated over the years since fashion school. i had been putting off tons of projects that i bought fabric for and never got through to realizing. some projects i have finished, some have become things of my mind’s past, and in their place new ideas have formed–one of them being this denim sleeve.
having been raised in seattle, i have a soft spot for starbucks and tully’s coffee, which are both found in tokyo. unlike in the states, most people use public transportation in this country. thus, our love for bags that are just big enough to cram all of our essentials in (representing people like moi). granted, there are many a cool, stylish girl that can seem to leave the house with a compact clutch holding just a smartphone (in a smart case that carries their train passes and credit cards all-in-one, or even better–apple pay), a tiny wallet, and lip tint. i mean, what about 3 packs of tissue, water bottle, makeup bag, notepad, pen, handkerchief, ipod, extra smartphone charger, etc….?? my point being: having to carry a personal tumbler or mug to my local caffeine joint, is way too much luggage than i already have to carry–especially for that unplanned stop-in to kill time.
although it’s not as green as having a personal tumbler at hand, i decided to make this fabric sleeve to replace the brown cardboard sleeves made of recycled material. yes, they are eco-friendly, however, not so much if they’re going straight back to waste after a couple hours of usage. there was a time where i would hold onto the sleeves for next time, but starbucks and tully’s have differently shaped cups, and i order anywhere between a short and grande, which would result in carrying around 4 sleeves at a time (at least starbucks uses the same size for tall & grande #marketresearch). they all started cluttering my bag again and became inspiration to make an all-inclusive sleeve for 3 different sizes at two different cafe chains.
the result, i patched together some of my favorite leftover denim scraps (these are another story on their own!) to sew up a denim sleeve that works for all three sizes at both stores (yay velcro!)! even more, i used quilting to function as insulation, working better than the cardboard.
it’s pretty cool to say, “no sleeve please!” and the barista goes, “umm… please be careful, it’s very hot” and BAM! i flash my swanky chic denim sleeve (brush that dirt off my shoulder, uh huh). before it all goes to my head, i understand that my next step is to create a portable, collapsable cup that i can carry around (or someone else can do the work for me? kickstarter?)… in the meantime, i’ll happily flash my washable sleeve that will be reusable for years. =)
this is my newly designed personal logo.
“personal”, meaning, not for my shop or brand; it’s me.
there are many symbolisms included in this logo.
today, i want to write about “fire, water, wind, earth”.
the reason why i wanted to post about this, is because Earth is in pain. this year in japan, we barely had a rainy season, until august came around and we had 20+ days in a row of rain. we finally got some sun and heat the past couple of days. then, we all complain that “ugh, it’s supposed to be rainy season and it’s super hot”; “it’s supposed to be summer but it’s always raining”; “IT’S TOO HOT”. WE keep complaining? what’s Earth got to say about all that we do to it?
in the last few days, there has been news in japan that major retail companies will be bringing their prices down in order to get the people to purchase more. a commentator mentioned that there was someone from a fashion company complaining that flea market apps are preventing sales.
in the western world, “sustainability” is a word we hear very often. in japan, it’s still a very new concept and industries don’t seem to appreciate it. in the world fashion industry, seasons are going haywire with “resort” collections squeezed in between, the “see now buy now”, and the resistances against either.
with the over-production, consumption, and accumulation of STUFF, first-world people are over-using our Earth’s resources, at which rate will not last for future generations of all worlds.
even then, there seems to be a “must buy the new trend of this season to fit in” mindset embedded in the japanese people. hundreds of fashion brands here, mass-produce, mass-sell, mass-gets consumed, mass-leftover, mass-throw-away, and mass-add to the piles of trash we already have.
yet, there is some hope, because people ARE buying less and taking advantage of recycling or buying secondhand. so maybe, the people ARE considering “sustainability”. now the problem isn’t the people, but the companies who are still trying to encourage consumption. shouldn’t they be considering how to sustainably produce more than mass? have a goal to make less products rather than make more profit? if the production-consumption balance is off, maybe THEY need to change on their part, because encouraging consumption isn’t helpful for our future in the least.
now, back to the four elements. in order for all these companies worldwide to mass-produce, mass amounts of resources are being used.
[ E A R T H ] mass trees are being taken down, mass earth being covered by factories, houses, high-rises.
with all our first-world trendy foods, mass soil are producing off-season, foreign foods, exhausting our soil and not able to provide nutritious produce. 大量の木々が倒されていき、大量の土が工場、家、ビルの下に埋もれる。
[ W A T E R ] mass water is filled with trash to make “land”, polluted with chemicals, dyes, and oil for mass-production. our Earth’s water is connected, which means radiation water is included in this pollution right? not to mention fracking… 大量の水の中に大量のゴミが埋められたり、「もの」の大量生産のために化学製品、染料、原油に汚染される。地球の水は繋がっているから、原発の汚染水もそこに含まれますよね。
[ W I N D ] mass air is polluted with chemical emissions and exhaust fumes. 大量の空気が大量の化学物質、有害物質、排気ガスなどに汚染される。
[ F I R E ]
simply put, mass fire (heat) is being used to create the pollution mentioned above.
without our trees, we have landslides; fracking causing earthquakes; less green more global warming–then we have people relying on air-conditioning to cool down, bodies don’t know how to cool naturally, our health and immunities gone out of wack…
unhealthy soil, pesticides make pretty but unhealthy produce. while our bodies ingest the little nutrition they try to process the toxins, exhausting our livers, and again affecting our health and immunities.
meat and fish are fed this too…
our bodies are already frantically trying to detox all the toxins that we take in via environment and food, we then go and add stress and sleep deprivation for the sake of making money to keep the economy running. see where i’m going? our bodies cannot battle disease anymore. and again i say, hurting the Earth ain’t helping the future of human kind.
that is why i’m writing this.
instead of helping the companies of japan and the world, we need to change our “need” for “the next new thing”, and think of the Earth and our future generations.
what IS the true meaning of wealth?
i’m not saying i grew up this way. but i ask myself everyday, “do i really need this?”
with all masses of so-called “organic”, local, domestic, imported stuff and foods, one can’t fully comprehend what is really good for their bodies or the environment. what you CAN do is consider trying to “do my best for my body and the environment”. it’s become my motto that i keep in the corner of my mind at all times.
this month, my fashion trend study is for 2008-09 autumn / winter. this year had some of my favorit-est style trends (moto jackets, boho, mannish, sculptured shapes…. all of them!)!
[ A/W 2008-09 ]
– what happened in 2007 ／ ２００７年のファッション出来事 –
folklorian bohemian ／ フォークロアボヘミアン
military jackets ／ ミリタリージャケット
plaids, tartans, checks ／ タータンチェック、プラッド格子柄
leather (reptile, fringes, pony) ／ レザー（クロコ類、フリンジ、ハラコ）
statement items ／ ワンポイントアイテム
sculptured coats ／ 立体的なコート
seductive fabrics ／ 魅惑的な生地
mannish ／ マニッシュ
fake glasses and straight bangs were THE THING in tokyo! ／ だて眼鏡＆パッツン前髪が東京の大流行！
unlike the trend-mix looks of the last year, in this season, single outfits seemed to stay true to one major trend. folklore-boho looks were a major trend, all thanks to gucci’s collection. while sculptured, structured outerwear stood out with louis vuitton and yves saint laurent. statement items added the finishing touch to complete a look–in the form of stand out blouses, bulky jewelry, sharp shouldered coats, and fully beaded/sequined tunics.
[folklore bohemian (from top clockwise)] gucci, jean paul gaultier, jamin puech [STRUCTURED] yves saint laurent, limi feu, louis vuitton
leather | shiny | reptile | lace
[leather] (bottom left quarter) louis vuitton | hermes scarf & hat, green jacket & sweater [shiny] (top left and center) swarovski (eye) | barbara bui [reptile] (top right) barbara bui bag [lace] (bottom right) prada
my most recent handmade item, is this upcycled clutch bag! there are only two in this world and i am so proud of them (only one will be sold)!! there’s a little story behind them that i want to share with you today 🙂
i teach english on the weekend, and one of my students and i talk about the importance of making clothes last (or rather he made me realize so: see my 2016 resolutions!). he tells me how he wears his clothes until they are worn thin and even then, he uses them as rags before tossing them. (side note: in japanese history, when materials and food were scarce, kimonos were used the same way: resized to fit children, upcycled into handbags or accessories, and eventually used as rags.) except, until this sweater–100% alpaca wool and made in ireland, it was the best quality–whose wool made him itchy and was unwearable. he told me that he had thrown this sweater away! i asked him immediately if it was still salvageable and fortunately it came into my hands.
after fashion college, i used to work for an italian clothing brand, where i was allowed to take home unneeded denim from pant alterations. i decided to combine this and the sweater to make clutch bags. two more things were needed though… instinctively i knew that pinstriped wool would be spectacular with it PLUS an “a-ha” moment led me to hand-weave a lemon yellow friendship bracelet specifically for the bag.
i added these super cute floral pin badges from the POOL AOYAMA (which closes tomorrow, march 21st, 2016 *GASP*) and “OMG” light-bulb brooch from niko and…. ／ 私のには、the POOL AOYAMA（明日、２０１６年３月２１日閉店なんですー T^T）のピンバッジとniko and…の『OMG』電球バッジをつけて、ポップにしました。
the lemon yellow and silver friendship bracelet, lightens up the otherwise dark clutch, so it’s usable in the spring. denim and knit goes well with casual looks, while pinstripes go with cleaner minimal outfits. ／ レモンイエローとシルバーのミサンガでダークめのクラッチバッグが一気に明るくなるので、春使用でも全然使えます！また、デニム＋ニットでカジュアルに、ピンストライプでキレイめにと様々なコーディネートで活躍するワンポイントになります。
in this illustration (by yours truly) ／ イラスト内のアイテム（私作です♥） : short sleeved shirt ／ 半袖シャツ : Acne Studios ready-to-wear SS16 “Morag pop white” rusty orange skirt ／ パンプキンスカート : ZARA SS16 mid-heel leather shoes ／ ミディアムヒールレザーシューズ : ZARA SS16
it’s been nearly a month since my last post… and it’s nearly the end of february! i have tons of projects i’ve been starting, which i hope to share with you soon enough! meanwhile, here’s my fashion trend study for 2007-08 autumn / winter!
– what happened in 2007 ／ ２００７年のファッション出来事 –
the cat eye ／ キャットアイメイク
patent leather ／ パテントレザー
black on black outfits ／ ブラック・オン・ブラック コーディネート
biker rocker chic ／ ロッカーシック
40’s glamour ／ ４０年代グラマー
PURPLE ／ 紫
nomad ／ 遊牧
stand alone coats ／ ワンポイントコート
the first michelin guide tokyo happened! ／ ミシュランガイド東京版が初めて発売された。
overall, there were a lot of contrasts within a look. for example, country + town (i.e. equestrian style boots combined with modern and clean styles), military + elegance (i.e. epaulet accessories or berets combined with fit and frilled blouses + tight pencil skirts), voluminous puffers in lady-like looks (quilted capelets), and black on black on black VS any kind of PURPLE & bold, beautiful, stand out jewel tones.
in continuation of my last fashion trend study from last year (which i haven’t been able to keep up… but plan to do at least once a month this year! <- i said it!), today i am talking about the colors (makeup in particular) of 2007 spring/summer.
for this season, the main cosmetic colors used on the runway were:
bright orange/red ／ 鮮やかなオレンジやレッド
pink ／ ピンク
silver ／ シルバー
gold ／ ゴールド
blue (turquoise) ／ ブルー（主にターコイズ）
although i didn’t have space for the blue, there were many combinations incorporating blue, like turquoise & gold or blue & red. the bright orange, red, and vermillion hues were found in many bold lady-like looks and athletic, sporty styles. on the other hand, pink was used generally in the romantic trend. as for gold and silver, they were of course used often for the metallic looks. what was fresh and sweet were the gold and pink combinations for romantic makeup looks.
in addition to the colors, working on this collage reminded me of the slew of new models and their iconic doll-like faces that i fell in love with. some of them include:
カラーに加えて、作業をしていて思い出したのは、当時大ブレイクだったお人形さん顏のモデル達。改めて惚れ直しました❤︎： lily cole ／ リリー・コール jessica stam ／ ジェシカ・スタム gemma ward ／ ジェマ・ワード agyness deyn ／ アギネス・ディーン doutzen kroes ／ ドウツェン・クロース